I hear this all the time from newbie model railroaders “railway model scenery’s are expensive to create”.  Yes, this can be true, if you buy all of your model railway scenery supplies from hobby stores.  But, many scenery model railway products can be found right in your own household.  You should always think twice before throwing anything away.  What looks like “junk” might be a great addition to your model railways scenery.

The following 13 household items are excellent “fillers”.  Fillers are used to fill in baron spots in your model railway’s scenery areas.

1.  Talcum or Baby Powder is fantastic for creating snow capped mountains or a snow covered farmers’ field.

2.   Smaller rocks in various sizes can create the look of large and small boulders.  To make the boulders look far away you need to use the “forced perspective” technique.  To do this, put the bigger rocks up front and the smaller slightly darker ones farther back, this creates the illusion that the farther back boulders are a long ways off.  Also, it’s best NOT to clean the rocks, as this will kill the age look that you will want.

3.  Next time you saw wood, collect the sawdust, add and mix in the right fabric dye color and presto you now have dirt and/or grass. 

4.  Ground up pecan and peanut shells can also work great for creating dirt.  You can vary the look of the textures’ dirt with the grinding.  The more you grind the shells the finer and smoother the dirt will be. 

5.  Different colored tea leaves when spread on the ground, gives the illusion of falls fallen tree leaves (this works great)!

6.  Smaller pebbles, shrubbery and twigs in your yard can be used for landscaping.

7.  Toothpicks are great for building fence posts and rails.  Round toothpicks stacked on top of each other will look like firewood.

8.  Match sticks (without the match head) are excellent for creating sign posts.

9.  Bamboo skewers when used right can make very realistic telephone poles.

10.  Black thread can be turned into telephone lines.

11.  Aluminum foil is one of the most commonly used household items by railroad modelers.  It can be molded into any shape you want and it looks like metal.  It’s also great for stopping light from going though areas like walls in a room.

12.  Metal combs will create a wood grain effect on soft plastic and wood.

13.  Used house paint is excellent for painting things like fence posts.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

For the ‘newbie’ that is thinking about building a model railroad train system, this hobby can look somewhat easy and simple to do.  But this type of thinking will often end up being a time consuming costly mistake.  This Mistake Can Be Easily Avoided!

I’ve been a railroad modeler for over 35 years and I have seen many people dive right in and later found out that they purchased the scale size that was not right for them.  This could have been avoided by first learning the different types of model railroad scales because each scale has their own advantages and disadvantages. 

First you need to know the difference between the terms “scale” and “gauge”.

Scale is the proportion of the railroad models to a real train.  And gauge is the distance between the rails.  Keep in mind when talking about model railroad structures there will never be a HO gauge only a HO scale.

Below is a brief description of the 6 most popular railroad scales used by railroad modelers all over the world.  This information hopefully will help you in choosing the railroad scale size that is the best fit for you.

The Top 6 Most Popular Railroad Scale Sizes:

1. G 1:22.5 (garden railways; a boxcar is as big as a 2 liter bottle)
2. O 1:48 (Lionel trains and others, decent selection of accessories, a bit expensive)
3. S 1:64 (not too popular, therefore this size doesn’t offer a lot of accessories)
4. HO 1:87.1 (cars about 7-9 inches and by far the most popular size)
5. N 1:60 (half the size of the HO scale, fair amount of accessories, costs more)
6. Z 1:220 (very small, good selection of accessories)

These scales range from large to small and each have their plus and negative sides.  One of the first decisions you need to decide on is how big of an area do you have to set up your model railroad.  Obviously, you don’t want to purchase the G Scale size if you have a small area to work with.  And you might not be to keen on the small Z Scale size if you have thicker fingers.

The most popular size up to the 1950’s was the O Scale (Lionel trains size) but when the industries 1950’s became capable of manufacturing smaller motors, it resulted in the ability of making smaller scales.  With this new technology, the HO and smaller scale model railroads were created.

HO Scales are 1/87 of the size of a real train and about half the size of the O Scale railroad model; HO literally means ‘Half O’.  HO railroads take nearly 4 times less space than the same 0 scale railroad.  To put it in perspective, the 0 scale size setup of 8’ x 16’ is only a 4’ x 8’ size in the HO Scale model.  Big Difference!

Because the HO Scale cost less to buy and took up less space many more people were able to get into this hobby.  Its huge demand created the largest selection of locomotives, railcars and accessories to choose from.  And, because the HO scale has a wide variety of structures to choose from that are already put together, it is perfect for the modeler that just wants to take it out of the box and set it up.

There is a lot more information to read about the different scales sizes but one of the best ways to help you to decide is to go to a hobby shop and see and operate the different model railroad scale sizes. 

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Image a train pulling into its scheduled stop to pick up passengers and you don’t hear any railway sounds.  But now image you hear sounds from the railway like the turning of the wheels slowing down until coming to a stop.  Then the conductor shouting “all aboard” and the railways whistle sound from the train letting everyone know that it’s leaving the station.

The correct railway sounds in the right location will bring your model railroad to life!  These are the 4 must do’s to installing a perfect model railroad sound system.

Scale Train Sounds

The sounds that you should hear with your railroad set-up must fit with the scale size of your train.  In other words, the sounds associated with a 0 scale layout should be significantly louder than the sounds for a smaller N scale layout.  When the sound is too soft for a 0 scale train then it is called “out of scale”.  If you install any sound system for the wrong scale layout it will kill its realism quicker than a shinny new looking train set.

It is mainly the difference in the sound volume that fits the right scale.  It’s important to know that the human ear picks up only midrange sounds; therefore, setting the volume too low can hinder us from hearing properly.  High frequency sounds might not be heard as well.  

There are two ways to enhance these frequencies when the volume is low:

1. On your trains sound system there usually is a “bass boost” control that can be adjusted so that the sounds are better heard.
2. A device called “WOW Thing” is inexpensive and can easily be installed in between your amplified speakers and audio source to help the sound receive more character and bass than it would normally have.

On Board Train Sounds

The easiest way to have on-board train sounds is to purchase a train that has the sounds already built-in.  Manufactures like Athearn, Atlas and Broadway come with sounds already included.  Just purchase one of these and you’re ready to go.  But what do you do if you already have a train that has no built-in sound system? 

You can install a sound system in your railcars, tender or locomotive using a sound system from SoundTraxx.  SoundTraxx is a system that works only on DC (analog).  Its circuit board already contains the sounds; therefore, you don’t have to record them.

Another on-board analog sound system is to have the sound unit located at the controls panel.  From the control panel you can use the tracks rails as wires and send the audio impulse to speakers on the locomotive.

Trackside Train Sounds

One of the simplest sound systems to install is from MRC – Model Rectifier Corporation (www.modelrectifier.com). It comes in 2 versions – each containing 18 different sounds accessed from a remote control:

1. Country and City Sound Station has all kinds of properly fitted sounds such as; car sounds, traffic, birds, cows, horses, thunder from storms, a jackhammer and much more…
2. Station Sound 312 has the most realistic steam and diesel engine sounds, horns, brakes, bells, whistles etc. 

For both of these sound systems you can play them continuously and if you want you can add additional sounds.  For the best effects mount the speakers where they will sound the clearest like; on the walls, overhead or under the layouts table. 

Important – Always test the speaker sounds in different locations to see which areas will give the best effects.

Make Your Own Train Sound

If you decide that you don’t want to purchase a sound system, you can build your own sound system by using portable CD players.  Purchase a player that has a remote control and use a CD which has looping prerecorded sounds.  Set these sounds to be played at the right times.

Using the player’s headphone jacks you can attach small speakers and install them in the appropriate location.  Not only is the location of the speakers important for getting the right effect but so is the direction.  Try different speaker placements such as; sometimes face them to the front or sometimes face them to the back, even try bouncing the sound off the walls.  Being creative here will give you the right sound effect.

You can hide the speakers under the layout’s table or behind some scenery.  But make sure that 70% of the speaker is not covered otherwise this can cause a muffled sound.  For boosting the sounds quality you can add a 3 to 5 watt amplifier that is made by Ramsey.

There’s many different CD’s that contain sounds from the train or from the environment.  The right combination of these will give you the best, most realistic sounds.  Companies like mytrainsounds.com and fantasonics.com have the best soundtracks available.

By using the above systems in combinations with each other along with your creativity you can turn any railroad system into an exciting, interesting realistic model railroad, making it a delightful experience for you and your visitors.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

What is your railroads benchwork; it is the structure that supports and gives character to your model railroad set up.  All of your railroads equipment from the tracks, buildings and scenery is supported by your benchwork.  And the railroad that goes up a hill or down to a mountain lake is created from your benchwork.   How your benchwork is made will depend on what type of railroad layout you want to create.

You can use a 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood for a simple benchwork setup but what happens when you want to create a larger railroad that has much more weight and different elevations?  Obviously, this will need a more extensive benchwork setup. 

But whether you are planning to build a simple train layout or a complex one there are 16 musts that ALL railroad benchwork should use. 

16 Successful Benchwork Secrets

1. Where your benchwork sits on the floor it must be tightly secured in order for it not to shake or wiggle which can easily cause your train to derail.
2. The benchwork must not have high or low areas (vertical displacement) as this also can cause derailment and your train to uncouple.
3. Make sure your benchwork’s aisles ways are wide enough for you and someone else to maneuver around in comfortably.  Remember as we age we usually get bigger (sad but true)!
4. Don’t unnecessarily over build your benchwork as this can make it too heavy to move.
5. Don’t waist the space under your benchwork!  This space can be used to build much needed storage for your trains equipment and supplies.
6. When building your benchwork make sure you leave enough room to duck or crawl underneath it to get to areas that you want to; such as the conductors station operating area.
7. Build the benchwork at a comfortable height for you to operate and work on your railroad.  Comfort adds to the enjoyment of railroading!
8. Don’t make your benchwork wider than 40 inches, this will allow you to easily reach all areas of your railroad.  Sooner or later we all have to clean, fix or replace parts on our railroads layout.
9. Plan ahead when building your railroad, who knows, you might need to move it some day.  This will help you to decide if you want it to be portable or not.
10. All areas that your benchwork attaches to should have a bead of silicone applied between the two areas as this will stop any possible squeaking.
11. The best benchwork material to use is CDX ¾ inch Plywood.  This outdoor plywood and the thickness will stop it from warping.  Any warping can easily cause your train to derail.
12. NEVER use nails for attaching your benchwork together as nails over time usually come loose.  You should use Flat Head Wood Screws and sink them in flush.  IMPORTANT: stay away from slotted screw heads as they quite often will strip.  I use a Robertson #8 Countersink Flat Head because it’s almost impossible to strip no matter how many times you unscrew and screw them back in (mistakes do happen, at least to me).
13. Building legs from 2 x 2 woods is fine for smaller railroad setups as long as you brace them to the benchwork.  But for larger setups that have more weight, I recommend using 4 x 4 posts with braces attached to the benchwork as well.
14. If you don’t want to duck or crawl under your benchwork then you can build a hinged walk through gate.  This can easily be lifted up, just make sure there are no sideways movements and always use heavy duty bolted on hinges.
15. For getting closer to areas on your layout you can build an indentation in your benchwork for easier reaching.
16. To add depth to your layout such as; your train climbing up and down a mountain side, roads, rivers, ravines and other details you can make these different elevations in your benchwork.  Doing this will add realism and exciting detail to your layout.  The most popular and easiest way to make these changes in elevation is by using the method called the “cookie cutter”. This method works the best because it allows for a smooth grade transitions.  And you can build your grades as gradual or as steep as you want.

Remember, your benchwork is the foundation for your model railroad and by designing and building it right you will have the strength and layout style you’ll appreciate and love.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Weathering model railways is crucial for making any model train look real.  Nothing will kill realism to any model train if it looks brand new.  That is why we want to “age” our railroad set up.  But doing railway model weathering wrong will give it a fake and sometimes a sloppy appearance.  I have listed the top 8 proven products that will weather your model railway quickly, easily, and most importantly realistically.

Top 8 Weathering Products

Dullcote (clear flat lacquer) is excellent in turning your new plastic model train into an aged one.  It comes in a small spray can and is easily applied; just follow the directions on the can.

Rustall is a product that any railroader that is worth his salt will use to rust metal objects.  It comes in an aerosol spray can and you can weather small or even whole finishes of rust on your model train.  For best results, prime or sand the area before application as this will better adhere it.

Instant Iron made by Modern Options is perfect for creating old rusted metal as it comes in a bottle.  For totally realistic aging effects on steel pipes or equipment I let a small amount of Instant Iron run down their sides.  I then take a diluted dark oil stain and on the runs I do an uneven back and forth wash.

Latex Paint in the color of medium grey will give your building’s bricks an old historic look.  To do this, simply brush on some ‘diluted’ grey latex paint across the brick area, and then before the paint dries quickly wipe the paint off the brick’s surface with a clean rag.  Paint will stay in the groves in between the bricks, thus, giving some bricks more definition than others.  

Weathering Powder is fantastic for creating that vintage model train appearance.  I find the easiest method is to apply the desired amount of weathering powder to your train and then spray on a light coating of hairspray as the hairspray will hold the powder in place.

Rubbing Alcohol lightly applied to plastic will cause it to fade.  You need to use a 93% rated rubbing alcohol as too high of a percent can cause small pits to your model train’s plastic finish. 

For extreme weathering spray 3 light coats of DullCote on the train’s plastic, allowing each coat to dry.  Then use a small mist sprayer filled with 93% rubbing alcohol and apply 1 wet coat.  The alcohol instantly reacts to the Dullcote and gives your train the most aged, faded, weathered finish you can imagine.  BE CARFUL HERE, only do a few train cars or objects as this effect goes a long ways and too much will kill the realism. 

Polly S Railroad Tie Brown works wonders for giving any freight car that look of wet mud from a recent trip in a rainstorm.  To get this look you must apply it in big patches and then streak out with a rag.

India Ink’s specialty is giving new unpainted wood the look of old weather-beaten wood that has been sitting outside for a long time.  Go lightly here as a drop goes a long ways.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

MODEL RAILWAY BACKDROP – Backdrop Tips Guaranteed To Make Your Railroad Come Alive And Sizzle!

Model railway backdrops can effectively add depth and a higher level of realism to a railroad.  Backdrops for model railways should enhance your railroad’s scenery and create the right environment for operating and showing your railroad.  Railway model backdrops take time and careful planning to set up right.

You’ll get better results if work on your model railroad backdrop as you are designing and building your model train.  Many people make the mistake by starting to work on their model train backdrop after they have completely built their model train.  By building and designing them together, you can make a perfect match that will add realism and depth to your unique railroad. 

The kind of backdrop will depend somewhat on the type of room and layout you are using.  Most railroad modelers have their layout against a wall and this works well if you have no corners.  A flat wall is perfect for a backdrop but if you do have a corner(s) then you will need to make them rounded.  A flexible hard board material can do this for you.

Take a thin, smooth hard board and above your layout attach it in the corner to each side of the wall with contact cement, this will make the surface a nice rounded area instead of a corner.  To make the hard board edges smooth attach drywall tape to the edges and cover the seams with compound spackle.  When dry, sand the excess spackle off until the seams can not be seen.  Lastly, you should paint the new corner with a white latex paint to seal it.

For railroads with long straight sections you can install a two-sided divider in the middle between each direction the train is moving.  By putting a different backdrop on each side, you will create the effect that the train is moving over a long distance from one local to a completely different area that has different scenery.  One side could show the train going by a city and the other side could look like its traveling through a mountain pass.

An important technique for making your railroad look realistic is called ‘forced perspective’.  When looking across an open distance the person standing in front of you will appear larger than the mountain in the distance.  To make your backdrop realistic looking, you will need to use forced perspective to show distant objects our smaller. 

Painting your backdrop yourself is often times very rewarding.  Even if you don’t have the skills to paint a detailed scene with flowers, people, animals, buildings and other objects, you can still paint more simple scenes that are effective. 

Like painting a plain blue sky with a few clouds can add a lot of realism to a train that is traveling through the country side.  This is easily done by brushing on the color acrylic flat paint “Velvet Sky Vinyl”, which can be purchased from any hobby store.

After you have done this you now might have the confidence to do more.  You can paint mountain tops near the bottom of the horizon using a flat acrylic grayish-blue or grayish-green paint.  Not adding a lot of detail to the mountain will help give the effect that it is far away. 

Now, if you have artistic abilities, then you might want to go further and paint meadows with trees or flowers and maybe a water fall in the distance.  The possibilities are only controlled by your talent and willingness to become better.

If painting your own scenery does not appeal to you, then another way to add scenery is with printed background scenery.  These can be purchased through Woodland Scenic’s and other manufactures.  There are literally hundreds of scenes you can choose from and many can be ‘stitched’ together so you can make a continuous long scene.  Two important suggestions:

1. Make sure the joining background matches perfectly, like the same color of a sunset.
2. Always glue the edges of your backdrop paper so that no seams are showing.

You can use your own photographs.  A quality digital camera will let you photograph your favorite scenery and then you can have it made into a high quality backdrop.  To do this, use a tripod and take several photos that are moving across until you capture the entire scenery.  Then the software that came with the camera can ‘stitch’ these photos together making one continuous picture.  Once you have ‘stitched’ the photos together, take your camera to a camera store that has the ability to turn your picture into a long banner that you can use for your backdrop.  For a more realistic backdrop, try to use shots that are farther away as close ups tend to look unreal. 

Important Tip:  while creating your backdrop, blend in your foreground scenery as this will add to the realism.  You want to make it difficult for you, and anyone else, to tell where the real scenery and backdrop join.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Don’t just hope your new railway setup will work and look right; eliminate this risk with a well thought out model railway layout plan.  You can purchase or even pay someone to draw a railway model layout plan for you.  But, wouldn’t it be more fun and rewarding to design your own plans for a model railway layout?

Layout plans for a model railway require thought in deciding where to install the tracks, place the hills, mountains, tunnels, or a valley that leads into a town, the list goes on and on.  It can be intimidating, but if you follow these 5 steps, you will be able to create the perfect layout plan for your model railway.

Knowledge Is Power 

The more knowledge you have about designing model railroad layout plans the better your plan will turn out.  You can find all kinds of railroad layouts in model railroad magazines or from the railroad section in the library.  Other excellent sources are joining a model railroad club or going to railroad hobby shops for ideas.

Once you have learned the different ways you can setup your railroad then you are ready for the next step.

Size and Obstacles

Before you can design your layout you will need to know two things about the area where you want to set up your railroad; the size it is and what obstacles that might be in the way.  Once you have the measurements, then draw on paper the size you will need your train’s “bench work” (platform that train lays on) to be.  Then write down any obstacles that might be in the way like; support post, doors, even the lack of electrical outlets. Next, what are your goals? 

Goals

This is where you need to decide what type of railroad you want to create.  Do you want a 1920’s era passenger train that leaves the ‘big city’ and travels through the country side to its next destination?  Or, maybe, you want a freight train that is hauling coal through the mountains with a lake in the foreground.  The possibilities are endless, but, you’ll need to decide what you want before you can do the next step, drawing your layout.

Drawing The Layout

First, complete the information for this list:

1. What scale size do you want?
2. What is the size of the setup area?
3. What and where are any obstacles?
4. Where the electrical outlets are for setting up my transformer etc?
5. How big do I want to make the track?
6. What the sizes of the scenery settings; mountains, lakes, cities, etc?
7. Where do you want to place your scenery settings?

With this information, you can draw out to scale on architectural paper the answers to the questions above.  Don’t forget to take into account the width and height for each display; you want the overall setup to be proportionate.

Once the layout looks right, it’s now time to put your drawing onto your bench work.  This might seem redundant but experience has taught me that what works on paper not necessarily works on the final layout area.  If your model railway layout plan looks correct (make adjustments if needed) then it’s time to start installing your railroad system. 

Patients

Make your model railroading experience fun and enjoyable by carefully planning and designing your layout plan.  Trust me, if you rush into building your railroad system, unseen problems most likely will appear in the near future. 

Also, as you’re putting it all together, you might find something that just doesn’t quite fit right, no worries, just make the necessary adjustments, move on and have fun doing it.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

When seeing a model railroad train for sale, how do you know if it’s being advertised at a fair price?  You Don’t!  Unless you research to find out what its real market value is.  The monetary value of a railroad train model for sale will depend on two things; how much demand there is for that product (which is determined by several factors) and its condition.

By understanding these things, you’ll become a smart, knowledgeable consumer, which knows what the correct value should be.  This article will help you get there!

Research

Regional railway club members are always eager to teach people about their hobby.  They have years of valuable knowledge and are an excellent source.

These 4 long time guides can teach you about railroads and their fair market value including their accessories:

1. Greenberg's Pocket Price Guide
2. TM's Lionel Price
3. Rarity Guide
4. Basic Model Railroading

Walther’s Catalog has over 850,000 railroad items in it.  The catalog contains modern trains, old-fashioned trains and just about everything else.  Also, look at the “Train Set Chooser” page for ideas that are a perfect fit for children.

If you want to learn about Lionel Trains then go to their Internet trains site and look at the “Shop Online” section.  It shows different scenarios, trains, accessories, they even have videos and books.

For antique model trains go to the Golden Spikes website.  Learn about their remote switches, water towers, model trains and everything else about these trains from the 40’s and 50’s era. 

The “Train Collectors Association Grading Standards” will break down for you the different classifications of model train standards.  You’ll learn what it takes for a railroad to be rated in Mint Condition and all the way to Poor Condition.

Go to eBay and look at previous sales of different model trains and accessories.  This will show you how much products have sold for.

Where to buy

Attend model railroad swap meets.

Buy from private parties.

Railroad clubs (fellow railroaders tend to treat other railroaders fairly)

E-bay

Garage sales

Flea markets

Newspaper’s For Sale section (I found the best deals in the local papers)

Estate sales

Auction Houses, two good ones are:

1. Stout Auctions
2. Nette Auctions

My experience has taught me that these auction houses grade the trains correctly and most of the time the winning bid sold for a fair market value.

Lionel’s website will show you where upcoming model train auctions are.

The Canadian Model Trains (CMT) has private auctions, plastic and brass trains.

Many hobby shops take model railroad trade-ins.  You can get some great buys here and they usually come with some type of warranty.

If you already have a train you can sometimes trade your train or railroad accessories for someone else’s railroad.  This can dramatically reduce costs.

Know the seller

The nice thing about purchasing through a site like e-Bay you can see the ratings of the seller and how long they have been selling.  This can help you choose a trustworthy seller. 

If you are interested in a model train from other sources I strongly advise you to go see the product and test it before you purchase.  Sometimes this is not always possible.  For these times and ALL purchases you should pay through a service like PayPal.  If you use PayPal and your product comes to you damaged, wrong order, missing parts or you have been mislead you can get a full refund. 

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Model railway making is either done right or it’s done wrong, there’s no in between.  You can purchase the best model railway equipment but if you don’t set it up right, meaning make it look authentic, then the fact is it will not look right!  Correctly building a model railway not only takes skill and time to learn but you also have to apply the right techniques.  Even if some of them sound crazy.

The following are 8 secrets I have been using for years.  Be forewarned, some of these might seem a little crazy BUT trust me, they work!

Building Roads to look real I use any brand of alcohol based asphalt patch material.  Most hardware stores will carry it.  Make a form for the road bed out of strip wood then dilute the asphalt with a small amount of alcohol and mix until it will pour into the form.  Then smooth the asphalt out with a putty knife until you have your road.  To add realism, you will need to do these 3 things your road.

1. Just before the asphalt gets hard, smear in some talc powder as this will give the “black top” slightly different faded colors of black. 
2. Cut in some cracks using a fine pointed needle. 
3. All roads eventually have edges that have “caved in” or broken down over time.  The best way to create this effect is simply to use your thumb and push down. 

For brick roads you can use the end of a paper clip and carve in scale brick designs.  This is perfect for making an old road bed leading to Grandpa’s farm house.

Tire tracks from a vehicle are an excellent way of adding realism.  To give the look that a car has driven on grass take an eraser and on your grass area rub off some of the grass (the width of car wheels) and it will create this appearance.

Old buildings in a field are often run down and in need of fixing up.  To help enhance this weathered worn look use a small knife and gently pry loose some of the buildings siding and roof shingles. 

Distressing buildings is the ability to turn a new building into an old run down one.  To get this look first apply one coat of lighter colored paint on your building.  When it is dry apply a darker colored thin coat of paint.  When dry take a fine 220 grit sand paper and on different areas of the building lightly sand until the base coat appears.  This will give the look of paint that has weathered off over time.

Clutter is the key to making run down areas look real.  Have you noticed that in run down neighborhoods there is ‘stuff’ everywhere.  Like bicycles laying in the yards, overflowing garbage cans on the side of a building or even junk cars in the neighbors’ yard. 

Plaster Casting for blending on colors is best (I know this sounds crazy) when you use women’s eye shadow.  This eye shadow is easy to work with and it adheres well.  Most of the time I apply black eye shadow first and then follow with the color(s) I want. 

Aerosol ‘Bounce” Weathering technique will create excellent spotty weathering like on a locomotive that is getting rust in spots but still has most of the paint left on it.  For this look use an air brush gun along with a small piece of smooth wood.  Spray the rust colored paint into the wood; make sure to angel the wood towards the locomotive about 2” away.  The paint that does not stick on the wood will bounce off and hit the locomotive.  Caution; it will also hit everything around it so make sure you put towels down to protect what you don’t want to get painted.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Stop!  Before you jump in and purchase your new model train you better first learn the differences between scale sizes. Knowing the different scales will help you decide…

1. Which model train will fit in the space you have available.
2. Which sizes are easier for you to work with (large or even arthritic fingers do not match well with smaller scales).
3. Which scales have the most choices for accessories.
4. What model train scales will fit your budget.
5. How realistic and authentic do you want your railroad to be?

Below are the 7 most popular model trains scales.  I have listed their pros and cons to help you understand which scale are the best match for you.

First, let’s clarify the difference between gauge and scale.  Gauge is the measurement between the inside of the track. Scale is the size comparison to a real train; an HO Scale is 1/87^th of the size of a real train. Just remember, gauge is the track size and scale is the train size.

The scales below are listed from the largest to the smallest.  There are other scales but these are by far the most popular choices with model railroad enthusiast.

G Scale: Because of their large size they are best suited to be set up in outdoor gardens, thus the nickname ‘Garden Train’.   They started in Germany and are 1:22.5 of an actual train size.  Their size makes them durable to rougher use; they don’t derail as often and are easier to operate.  The down sides are:

1. They take more maintenance for the outdoors if you live in wetter climates.
2. They don’t offer many operating accessories like; automatic crossing gates, remote controlled bridges, etc.   

O Scale: Like the G Scale the O Scale is popular due to it’s larger but slightly smaller 1:48 scale size, which makes it easier to work with and operate especially for people with larger or problems hands.  This scale is also an excellent choice for children.

Another thing to consider is the higher cost for the O Scale train and its accessories.  Lionel is famous for making the O Scale popular and has been doing so for decades so there a lots of accessories available. 

S Scale: This scale size is in the middle at 1:64.  It needs only 10 per cent more area than an HO Scale and is becoming popular because of this.  The trains detail is good and there’s a strong selection of reasonably priced accessories.

HO Scale: This is the most popular scale with railroaders; in fact, two-thirds of railroad modelers rate it as their favorite.  Here are some reasons why:

1. They are about half the size (1:87) of the larger trains; HO literally means “half of O”.  If space is a concern then this scale might be for you.
2. They have a huge selection of accessories.
3. The start up cost is less and so are the accessories.
4. You can build the most realistic detailed set up.  Many fantastic layouts can be created on a 4’ x 8’ bench work.
5. They have a large selection of scenery.

TT Scale: This scale is smaller than the HO Scale at 1/120.   This model railroad is very popular in Europe but in North America it has few fans.  The availability of parts and prices are reflected in which continent you are from.

N Scale: This scale came into prominence in the 60’s.  It’s a smaller scale at 1:160, which makes it about half the size of HO Scales.  It is fairly easy to work with but hand size can play a factor here.  Its size does permit detailed layouts even in smaller spaces. 

The downside of the N Scale model train is the higher price and the lack of availability for accessories, especially compared to the HO Scales.  This is due to its lack of universal popularity, although it’s getting popular in North America.  The recent trend of people moving into smaller homes has increased its popularity due to its ability to build a detailed railroad in a small space.

Z Scale: This is an excellent choice for anyone with limited space as the Z Scale is the smallest of the scales at 1:220 of a train.  This scale is perfect for setting up in offices or on a desk at home with a lot of detail possibilities. 

The availability of accessories is not strong and if you have larger or hands with problems working on this train could be very frustrating.

It is one thing to read about the different scales, but to really get the feel of the different sizes, I suggest that you visit your local train hobby store to see and feel the different scale sizes.  The more knowledge you have the better choice you will make.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison

Model train weathering, decaling and painting is the art of taking something new and making it look old with years of abuse and use. And you have to make the model railway weathering match the age to the time of the scenery you want to create. If you think this sounds hard to do this, well you are partially right. As you have probably already seen in pictures there are ways you can mimic years of dust, windswept, grease and grime, rust and soot, wear and tare.

Weathering Techniques Makes this New Building Look Old.

The way to imitate rust, dust, soot and grime is to grind up a piece of pastel chalk into a fine dust. You can accomplish this by using a razor knife. You will need to add the right color of whatever look you are going after. For a grease look I mix black and dark green water base paint to the chalk until I get the color and look that I want. Using a stiff brush to apply the pastel chalk will give it the right realistic textured look to whatever you are applying it to. Don’t worry if you don’t get the look you want right away as at anytime you can redo it. Simply wipe and wash it off then let it dry and then try again. Once you get the look you want then you need to permanently keep the chalk in place by lightly applying a spray coat of Testor’s Dullcote. This will seal it in place giving the area a natural realistic look that professionals get.

You can also do what is called “dry brushing”. Dip a brush in rust or grease colored paint then wipe it off on a paper towel. Now using the nearly dried brush, apply the paint on the brush with very thin lines. This will give you the best look for simulating rust and grime.

Another technique is called “bounce weathering”. To do this technique you spray paint from either an aerosol can or airbrush setup onto a piece of cardboard at an angel in the direction of the object you are painting. The paint that flies off will be in nearly dry specks, when these specks land on your model it will simulate the various types of grime and dust that accumulates on railroad cars and locomotives. Do this same procedure using white paint it will give the front of any moving vehicle a look of paint damaged cause from rock chips. It helps to look at photos in different publications for getting ideas for the look you want to achieve. A big key to effectively achieving the right weathered look is to go slow and not to go overboard. Until you get the hang of it
“less is better”.

Painting quality is only as good as the surface you are applying it to. You can be the best painter in the world but if the surface is not prepped correctly you will be disappointed.

Prepping ways for:

Wood – sand until wood is smooth and free from any contaminants. I always wear rubber surgical gloves while handling any materials so that my skin’s oils will not get on them. After sanding you will need to spray on a quality wood primmer. Now it will be ready for painting.
Metals – I first wipe off all contaminates with a quality metal degreaser that you can purchase from any auto painting store. Again, wear your surgical gloves while holding the metal and now sand with a 120 grit sandpaper to get any rough areas off. Before painting sand with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, this will give the metal a smooth finish for the paint. After sanding you will need to take and wipe it with a tack cloth. Now the metal is ready for apply a quality metal primmer (this can also be purchased from a auto painting store). Once the primmer is cured you can spray the metal with a good Enamel paint.
Plastics – While wearing your surgical gloves wash the plastic with a dish soap to remove any oils, grease and other contaminates (sanding plastic can do damage). When dry you can apply a paint that is made for painting plastics. The only problem with plastic paints is there is not that big of a selection in colors to choose from. If you can’t find the right color plastic paint then you will need to primmer the plastic first using a plastic primmer and then the paint will stick to the primmer.

Always use a high quality paint brush as the will not leave any brush strokes and they will not let any brush bristles come out and get into your paint. For larger areas, if you can, use an air brush over an aerosol spray can as you will get a finer more professional look. Before spraying always check with the paint manufacture and follow their instructions for thinning the paint when using your air brush. When applying more than one coat us railroad modelers find that using drafter’s tape made by 3M is the best for masking. The reason it is so good is that it does not leave any stickiness where as regular masking tape will. Painting is the final finish so take your time and do everything correctly. The right prepping, masking and painting techniques will give you that professional look you see on the cover of model railroad magazines.

Decaling is very simple but requires you to move slowly. Decals come on sheets. To apply your decal cut out the decal from the sheet and then dip it into warm water until it curls. If your decal is small use tweezers to hold the paper that the decal is on. Move the paper with the decal close to the area you want to apply the decal to. Gently (don’t tear it) slide the decal off the paper using your finger or a smooth blunt object like and eraser head and move it to the location you want it. Now gently flatten the decal using the flat object like an eraser and adjust it to the spot you want. Sometimes you will have some small bubbles under the decal. Not to worry, just let the decal dry and then take a pin and puncture a hole into the decal and carefully work the air out behind the decal. Use Dio-sol product on the decal and it will soften it so that the void from the hole will go away.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Building model railway scenery took lot's of practice before I began to be able to make my railroad system have that realistic appearance. It seemed that each time I tried I got a little bit better and the nice thing about model railway scenery is you can restart over and try again. I highly recommend getting information about using the different types of methods used for creating quality scenery for your model railway. Preferable information that has lots of clearly explained illustrations. Or you can even take a picture of an area that you want to recreate and created it onto your railroad model scenery setup. This part of your model railroading experience will bring (or develop) the artistic side of you. Most of the scenic model railway building techniques are similar but a lot of railroad modelers have and use their own techniques.  

Beautiful Fall Railway Model Scenery.

You can use wood to cut out your designs for your scenes such as for buildings. This can take more work and sometimes it is harder to work with wood. That is why I prefer using Woodland Scenic’s Sub Terrain System as it is easier to work with and lighter. It is a high-density foam material that comes in different sizes and thicknesses. It is easy to cut out rocks, sides of a hill or edges of a mountain lake. But for bigger objects such as mountains I like using a combination of piled up wood for height, screening for filling areas and then adding plaster of Paris for the top and sides of the screen to create the mountain effect. You can make the steep cliff shapes or whatever you want easily with this method.

To get that realistic look don’t pack into an area too much. Take a look at any scenery (not inside a city) and you will see some open land areas that don’t have buildings or anything else for that matter on it. In this case you don’t want to leave it totally baron so you will need to use a simple “but very effective” technique called “fillers” to cover these areas.

Here are some tips:

1. Cover this area with dark to medium dirt.
2. Use a finer mesh kitchen sifter and sift the dirt through it. You can run it through just once for a chunkier looking area or sift it several times to make it a smoother dirt looking like a plowed field just before planting crops.
3. I also like using tea leaves. I buy the least expensive tea leaves available in a grocery store and I spread them over that area in the selected spots to give it a look of dead leaves on the ground (this works great!).

An effective way to make background objects seem far away to the eye is to use the “forced perspective” techniques. To do this you need to make objects in the background smaller in scale than they normally are. Such as scenery with a row of trees located far back against a mountain you will need to make the trees smaller and darker in color to give the deception that the trees are far away.

Not in to painting backdrops then try photographic backdrops. I have taken a picture of a scene outdoors that I wanted for my railroad backdrop. I then had the print turned into a poster size printing, then I trimmed the edges down and put it on my wall for that perfect scenic backdrop. I once even had a print develop into a 4’ x 6’ printing and it made a perfect backdrop scene.  You can also purchase photographic backdrops from most hobby stores.

Photographic Backdrop Adds Scenery & Depth.

Most model railroaders like to do the scenery finish with a water soluble color painting system. Water soluble materials can be mixed, thinned and cleaned up with water. There are no messy chemicals or fumes or chance of a fire to worry about. Also another advantage is most water soluble products are fully compatible with each other therefore you can start and stop a section of the scenery you are building and then continue at a later date and the colors will blend in perfectly. This makes it easier and more forgiving to work with. But no railroad scenery will look nice without a plan.

Building sceneries is a vast art and a skill that takes time to develop. There are several good books on the subject that go into detail. It is a subject that you can read and learn about for a long time and as I already said after you have done it for awhile you too, like other long time railroaders, will develop your own techniques for giving you the perfect realistic railroad scenes.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

I must admit it took me awhile before I stopped being intimidated by electricity when wiring my model railroad. I learned there are basic things to know about electricity and knowing how it works will take away some of the fear of wiring a model railroad. Most model railroad wire challenges are not that difficult to figure out.

One of the things I do like about electricity is that it is consistent, meaning it will do the same thing each time. So figuring out any problems is usually a matter of breaking things down into smaller steps to locate where the problem is. Once the problem area has been located then it is a simple matter of correcting the wiring to solve the problem.

I am not going into how to wire in this article as you can literally write a book on it. But I will point out several different important points. And here is RULE #1 and if you never forget this your wiring jobs will be much easier. TEST EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT ON YOUR LAYOUT!!!

Even Simple Layouts Should be Tested First.

Test your new and old accessories, transformers, uncouple/unload sections, turnouts and every track section. It is like a chain, you don’t want to pull something and then find the “weak link” when the chain breaks, you want to find the weak link first and then fix it before you use it. Testing before putting your layout together will help you find any weak links. Nothing is worst than putting everything together (I know, I have done this) and it does not work. Then you have to figure out where the problem is and the only way to do this is by testing each piece.

Another tip is after you have tested all the pieces then as you put the layout together re-test each piece that you just installed. That also includes every connection, run of track, electrical circuit, turnout and UCS remote control track and more. Sounds daunting I know but trust me doing this can literally save you hours of time (not to mention pulling out your hair) trying to figure out what and where the problem is.

When testing your transformers you need to examine its line cords and plugs for any signs of deterioration or damage. Next check the transformer’s circuit breakers by creating intentional short circuits across all the terminals. The breakers should kick in after only a few seconds. Then test the outputs of the various variable voltage throttles. They should provide smooth uninterrupted increases in voltage from their off positions to the very top of their ranges. This will insure a smooth increase and decrease in your locomotive’s movements.

Note, if your transformer fails any of these test then it needs to be taken to a professional for service.  Once your transformer is ready to go then regularly check your transformers for any problems

.

Regularly Check Your Transformers as they do Wear Out.

Wiring a layout is made much easier when you use the proper gauge of wire. Think of the wires as the arteries that deliver life to your layout. If one thing is wrong sometimes it will not show up right away but in time it usually does.

Once you have set up your railroad system and everything is working correctly you will need do regular track cleaning otherwise the tracks will build up enough dust that will be compacted by the wheels of your train thus forming a nonconductive film. In time it will interrupt electrical contact and cause your locomotive to run poorly and/or stop altogether. The solution is simple just remove the layer of dirt from your locomotive wheels and tracks.

Here are several ways to do this:

1. Use an Abrasive Track-cleaning block (simply rub the block on the top of the tracks to remove the buildup and then wipe with a clean cloth).
2. Rail-Zip track cleaning fluid (just wipe the product on the track rails while the train is moving; this will insure the tracks and the locomotive wheels are both cleaned.
3. Isopropyl Alcohol 91% fluid (dampen a cloth and wipe the top of the rails and as the cloth gets dirty just use a clean area and continue cleaning (do the railroad’s wheels too).
4. Track Cleaning Cars (probably the easiest way to clean tracks, just hook up the track cleaning cars and run it around the track as you would normally do and it will do all the work)

Take the time and do the wiring correctly then just maintain the wiring and keep the tracks clean and you will seldom have any problems. If you have done this and a problem does happen it is usually caused by something wearing out or has been damaged.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

What does model railway building benchwork mean; it is the under frame of your layout, it is the structure that supports your subfloor which supports your track work. I like to think of it as the floor rafters in a house that supports the plywood that is sitting on it that is supporting the carpet, wood finished floor or tile flooring. Once you have your layout completed this will determine how you need to build your benchwork for your model railroad.

You can build a simple flat 4 x 8 plywood layout and the railroad benchwork for that is easy to build. In fact you can go to Wal-Mart and purchase a 3 x 6 folding table and that would support the 4 x 8 plywood. But if you want a bigger layout or say you want different elevations for your railroad layout then building that benchwork will become more complicated.

But whether it is a simple layout or one that is complicated building the model railroads benchwork correctly is crucial as it supports your railroad system and makes the setup lay correctly. Make it shorter on one side your setup will tilt or not strong enough your setup could come tumbling donw, not good.

Simple Folding Table Make Great Benchwork.

So you have three choices for having benchwork:

1- Build it yourself

2- Have someone else build it

3- Purchase one (only simple ones are available for purchase).

There is information available (some good and most not so good) for sale that will tell and show you how to build benchwork for your model railroad. I would encourage you to try it yourself, the key to building a successful benchwork structure is to take your time and follow the directions. If you join a model railroading support group you can get all the help you need to achieve your goals.

I have been asked by many railroad modelers what is the best benchwork method and the answer is that there is no one best way to build benchwork. You can choose open-grid or L-girder, free-standing (hung from ceiling) or attached to the walls, or a combination of styles, all can work well and will depend upon your track layout. Use the methods you feel will work best for the space you have to set up your railroad and the layout you want. I once helped my friend build his benchwork and it was so complicated that we ended up getting help from a carpenter. I felt that we could have completed it ourselves but we were under a time frame.

Benchwork with Indent For Standing Closer.

Here are some considerations to keep in mind when building your benchwork. Keep all track work within arm’s reach. Even scenic layouts will need to be dusted and if they are over arms length then it will be difficult to reach. Tables that are wider than 40” should have access from both sides. Everything on your table will either need to be cleaned, repaired or adjusted at some point and you will need to be able to reach them.

When building your benchwork you need to make it strong enough to handle the weight of your plywood and the railroad system itself. The best plywood’s thickness needs to be at least 3/8” or thicker as too thin will likely warp. Some railroad modelers prefer using a product called Homasote. Homasote is a pressed-fiber product that helps with sound deadening. The drawback is it is harder to cut than plywood and nail into it. Some railroaders like to nail there plywood into their benchwork but I have learned this will come back to haunt you. The nails over time will loosen up so to stop this use wood screws instead of nails.

Another trick is to apply a bead of silicone caulking onto of the benchwork where the plywood will lay on; this will stop any possible squeaks that sometimes occur over time and use.

I love adding depth to my tabletop and the right benchwork will add depth to your layout. Most beginner railroad modelers start with a table and put on it a 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood tabletop but it is somewhat limiting. A flat table makes it handy to try different track arrangements and place buildings and other details, but scenery doesn’t get interesting or real looking until you start to vary the elevations of the track and other elements. If your scenery has elevated tracks, roads, hills, rivers, ravines, lakes and other details it will give a realistic appearance.

This Benchwork Adds Depth to the Layout.

The easiest and most popular way to make these elevation changes is to use what is called the “cookie cutter” method. What makes this method so workable is it allows for a smooth grade transitions and grades as steep or gradual as you want. The flexibility of the cookie cutter method is very flexible. You can leave the table portion in place for towns and large industries, or remove it or recess it for low areas. Keep in mind there are several other ways to build your benchwork. Just be careful where you get your information from on how to construct your benchwork.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

It doesn’t take very long while watching your simple railway model layout that goes in circles that you decide you want to add to it. There are a multitude of ventures that you can take; add more tracks, making bigger ovals or circles, add hills, tunnels, mountains with beautiful sceneries, add a valley that leads into a town with all of its amenities, even which scale models you choose will influence your layout for your model railroad, the list is endless. Now you can begin to see how easy it is to get hooked on this hobby.

But to do all of these things right you need a well thought out layout plan for your model railway. To help you, I have come up with 6 layout secrets that have helped me and some of my fellow railroading friends.

6 Secrets For Railway Layouts Success

#1 – Research. Some railroaders do the “freelance” route when designing their layouts. But for beginners I highly recommend researching layout plans that can be found in different publications. Unfortunately most publications out there do not cover all of the many different layout choices that are available, so you can easily end up buying several publications to get what you want. A good place to learn about model railroading layouts is in forums or blogs. I have also found railroading clubs to be very helpful as the members seem to really want to help each other. My first layout I did it “freelance” style. I bought a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and put down my track but just one of the many mistakes I made was the curve of the track was too sharp (it was at the end of the plywood) causing my train to tip over there. Being at the end of the plywood I had no room to make the necessary adjustments needed so I had to start all over. But this time I did research on making a layout plan.

#2 – Start Smaller. Don’t overwhelm yourself by building a model railroad that you saw on the front cover of a railroading magazine. My advice for beginners is to start with a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood for your “benchwork” (see Benchwork article). On this size you can build a layout plan that will have just about everything you can imagine for your model railroad. And as you build from your layout plan you will develop your skills in building it to get that realistic looking railroad set up. So start with a smaller layout and become an expert in creating it. A lot of the layout’s realistic look is literally developing strong artistic skills. Like giving an old tractor sitting next to a barn that authentic weathered look. Once you develop these skills then you can add to your model railroad.
Simple Setup Ready for a Backdrop.

#3 – Comfort. Operating my first railroad on the floor by the Christmas tree was a lot of fun but it didn’t take long before I starting thinking that it would be more enjoyable if my railroad was up higher when I used it. Not only is it more comfortable when you can stand next to your railroad but it is easier to keep it clean from carpet fuzz and animal hair. Setting your railroad up on something like a sheet of plywood can help your trains to operate right, it is easier to build your scenery, buildings and develop different track variations.

#4 – Clubs. Over my 32 years in model railroading I have built many great friendships. It is fun to communicate with people that have the same interest as you do. You can get great ideas for developing your railroad system and other things like finding out where there is a good buy on some products. With many of my railroad club buddies we email pictures to each other of our railroad setups. I can’t tell you how many times I have had a question about my railroad system and someone will email me a picture with instrutions on how to do it right. In fact, I literally received over 1,200 holiday cards last year from my railroad friends that I have made over the years.

#5 – Get a Starter Tool Kit. When you start your model railroad system you will need a least the basic tools for doing the putting it together. These are the tools needed to get started:
1. Needle Nose Pliers (ones with wire cutters and about 6” long)
2. Rail Nipper (needs flush cutters)
3. Jeweler Screwdrivers (smaller tools with magnetized ends to grab the small parts)
4. Hobby Knife (X-Acto is best, buy lots of blades and always cut away from you)
5. Tweezers (necessary for any detailing work such as building structures, decaling and scenic work.
6. Needle File (helps when working with flexible track)
7. Paintbrushes (small artist types)
8. Soldering Gun (use 60/40 rosin core solder for wiring)
9. Clamps (use to hold things in place while the adhesive is drying)
10. Small Drill (I prefer the manual ones)
11. Scale Rule
This “basic tool set” will give you a good start but as you grow you soon will get more tools such as an air brush painting system for making things like beautiful sceneries.

#6 – Be Patient. Make your model railroading experience fun and enjoyable by carefully planning and designing your layout plan. Trust me, if you rush into building your railroad system you will create problems that will make you frustrated. To develop a railroad system like you have seen in publications skill and this skill takes time to develop. Like any new skill that you learn it takes practice and tenacity. The best way I developed these skills was to take my time, learn slowly the right way and not to put pressure on myself. If something did not turn out the way I wanted it to then I would learn what I did wrong and then come back to it later and do it again until I was satisfied. This hobby is all about enjoyment and satisfaction so make sure you keep it that way.
   

Even a 4’ x 8’ Layout Can Be Complex.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

The hobby of model railroading is one of the most engaging, relaxing and rewarding activities that a person can pursue. It has no limits to gender or age and is enjoyed by people all over the world. In fact, railroad modelers are a close-nit community. Railroad modeling is a hobby that you literally can keep adding to.

Like a lot of people I got my first “train set” for Christmas. Rubbing the sleep from my eyes that Christmas morning and seeing my very first model train circling the Christmas trees was a site I have never forgotten. Thirty-two years later I am still consumed with this hobby.
  

My First Railroad Set (Xmas 1971, Wow!)

I share my experience with my two children (Dan and Debbi) and my wife Cathy. And I can say that our joy for model railroading has help made us a tight knit family. Whether you participate in this hobby by yourself, with other family members, friends, forums or clubs you can find complete enjoyment in this hobby.

I caution you, once bitten with the model railroad bug it can consume you, consume in a good way.

Model railroading from the outside in can seem somewhat simple. But like in most hobbies there is much more to it than what meets the eyes. It is easy to rush into this hobby and end up getting the wrong equipment, set up and supplies.

Unfortunately by the time you figured this out your pocket book could easily become much lighter. Therefore doing the proper research before starting not only will get you going in the right direction it will also teach you what to purchase and how much you should be spending.

The best scale of railroad for beginners to start with (and if you want to stay with) is by far the HO scale. Not only does the HO scale have the biggest selection of models and accessories to choose from but the HO models cost less. If you are the type of model railroader that wants to do less set up work the HO scale has a wide variety of structures that come in kits that are already put together. You just set them up.

But if you are the “DIY” do it yourself type of person then you can purchase all of the parts individually and put them together yourself. You’ll find models of almost every diesel locomotive and a wide range of steam locomotives as well as a tremendous variety of rolling stock, structure kits and detailing items. HO railroads take nearly 4 times less space than the same 0 scale railroad setup. This means a 0 scale setup size of 8’ x 16’ in an HO model railroad will be 4’ x 8’.

You have probably heard of the terms “scale” and “gauge” but do you know what they mean.

Scale is the proportion of the railroad models to the real thing. And gauge is the distance between the rails. Keep in mind when talking about model railroad structures there will never be a HO gauge only a HO scale. HO railroad models are 1/87 or 1:87.1 of the size of the prototype. The initials HO comes from “half 0” being HO scale is about half of the 0 scale (1:48) this size was the most popular with railroad modelers up through the 1940’s.

But the 1950’s industries became capable in building smaller motors and other parts which resulted in the capabilities of building smaller scales. Thus the HO model was created and quickly became the most popular model to this date. Keep in mind when talking about model structures there will never be a HO gauge only a HO scale.

Here are some of the several scale sizes:

1. G 1:22.5 (garden railways; a boxcar is as big as a 2 liter bottle)
2. O 1:48 (Lionel trains and others)
3. S 1:64 (not too popular)
4. HO 1:87.1 (cars about 7-9 inches and by far the most popular size)
5. N 1:60 (about half the size of the HO scale)
6. Z 1:220 (very small)
7. HO Scale Next To O Scale.

Something else to consider if you have clumsily fingers like me working with the HO scale is easier than working with the smaller sizes. But if you still are not sure which scale you want then I would suggest going to a hobby shop and see and operate the different model railroad sizes.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!
 

Weathering model trains is the ability to turn a shinny new train into a realistic “seasoned” looking one.  Weathering train models right means you will want to recreate on your locomotive and cars the effects from dirt, different weather conditions, age, scratches, and yes, even dents. 

Keep in mind the ability to weather any model train correctly is a skill that takes time to develop. With practice and using the right tools you too will have the “realistic” looking model train of your dreams.Below are 12 essential tools that all model train enthusiast must have in their weathering arsenal. 

Soft Bristle Paint Brushes

Soft bristle quality paint brushes are one of the best tools for creating a weathered look on your train, especially for making streaks like spilled oil or rust running down the train’s sides.

Stiff Bristle Paint Brushes

Excellent for creating streaked lines such as mud that has landed on the side of your locomotive.  When mud hits a moving object it is thick at the impacted area but will splash out into thin streaks.

These brushes are also perfect for creating the thin lines or runs that are on many tanker and box cars as result of overflowed liquids escaping from hatches or rust running down their sides.

Hard Wire Brushes

These are useful for creating scratches on your train’s logos, paint or sides of your wood finished cars.

Chalk

For creating that overall older, dirty weathered look, chalk is a necessary tool.  You can purchase chalk designed for this purpose from any hobby store.  It actually has a built-in adhesive that is made for sticking to your train.

Assortment of Sandpapers

80 Grit sandpaper is excellent in creating scratches.  For paint missing due to something that has been rubbing on your train, 220 Fine Grit will create the look of rubbed of paint, such as, the handle that the conductor uses to get in and out of the locomotive.  REMEMBER, EVERY DETAIL MATTERS!

Needle Nose Pliers

These not only hold things while you work, they are also great at creating a damaged look from hitting something by bending, twisting or even breaking off a part on your train.

Sharp Small Knife

This knife does a multitude of useful things; it will open up lids on paints, clean out Airbrush guns, fine tune areas that you’ve weathered, create cracks and even place scratches exactly where you want them.

Toothpicks

Toothpicks are handy for creating fine lines, scratches, or even placing glue where you want to.  This is a simple, effective handy tool.

Double Action Airbrush Gun

This is a wonderful weathering tool.  My favorite airbrush gun is the double action Badger Model 100LG.  It’s excellent for; bolts/nuts, valves and other fittings that require up close detailed work.

Q-Tips

There are several types of different shaped Q-tips available from any store’s cosmetic department.  Q-tips are excellent for applying chalk and paints for certain situations.  They last forever, come in large quantities and are inexpensive.  You’ll come up with a multitude of uses for them.

Shaped Sponges

Also found at the cosmetic counter are different shaped sponges for complexion care and bathing.  These sponges are extremely handy for clean up and painting applications.

A Sharp Eye

Studying photos of locomotives and their cars (or even seeing them in person) will show you how real world weathering really looks.  A “sharp eye” to every detail will be your best tool for duplication authentic weathering.

One important obvious (but often overlooked) last note, make sure that all the running gears, like inside the wheels, couplings ad pistons stay clean from any weathering that you apply to your train.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Proper model railway wiring will ensure your model train to run smoothly, safely and correctly. Even if you have never worked with wiring railway models before, it is surprisingly easy to learn. Wiring model railways is an exciting part of the hobby. It allows you to control starting the locomotive’s engine to stopping it and everything in between its route; a model railway wired correctly is a stress free railway.

The beauty of electricity is that it’s consistent, meaning it will do exactly the same thing over and over.  So when a wiring problem occurs all you have to do is break the situation down into small pieces until you isolate where the problem is.  And Bingo, once the problem is found then it’s easily fixable.

9 Model Railroad Wiring Tools You’ll Need

1. Wire Cutters
2. Wire Strippers
3. Crimping Tool
4. Wire Tester
5. Assortment of Wire Nuts, Crimping Connectors, and Splice Connectors
6. Small Soldering Iron with stand
7. Small diameter Heat Shrink Wire Wrap
8. Rolls of proper different colored wires
9. Roll of Self-adhesive Copper Tape (used under smaller track layout board bus bars).

The two most used model railroad wires are solid and strand wires.  The solid wire is just that, a solid wire.  With solid wires there is no chance of ‘wire strands’ that can touch anything close and cause a short circuit.  The disadvantage is that it is not very flexible.  While strand wire is flexible and can easily bend and maneuver around things.

Wire comes in several different gauges.  The gauge size you will use will depend on the job you want to accomplish.  As the number of the gauge goes higher the wire becomes smaller.  Therefore, a gauge size 18 is bigger than the gauge 22 size. 

USING THE RIGHT GAUGE CAN BE CRITICAL!  For example; using too small of a gauge can cause the wire to have too much resistance and this will either cause your equipment NOT to work properly OR worse the wire can get too hot and cause a fire.

Recommended Wire Gauge Usage

1. 14–16 gauge for track power bus
2. 18–20 gauge excellent for track feeders
3. 22 gauge for remote turnouts
4. 22–24 gauge for lights and sounds

12 Wiring Tips

1. Test each piece as you put your train layout together.  That includes every connection, electrical circuit, track, turnouts (anything that is electrical).
2. All wires should be properly connected and tight.
3. Your tracks should be connected to the DC terminal and not the AC terminal as this may damage your train's engine.
4. Debris and dust will build up after awhile and can cause electricity not to flow correctly.  So clean the track with a soft, clean cloth along with a track cleaner.  You’ll want to also avoid dust getting inside the engine and causing a short.
5. Make the track level and secure it down tight as this will help support your wirings continuity.
6. After the wiring has been done use a polarity tester to confirm that there are no short circuits.
7. Use different colored wires to help keep unity.  I use red wire for positive currant usage and white wire for negative current.
8. Put coding on all of your wires as you install them, this will let you know what each wire is used for; this way there will be no confusions.   Use white adhesive tape and wrap it around the wire, then take a black marker pen and write on the tape what that wire is used for.  Simple and very effective!
9. When you use multiple connecting wires, keep the splices staggered, this will help avoid causing any short circuits. 
10. After soldering connections, always file any soldering edges or wire left sticking out, as they can also cause electrical shorts.
11. A successful track layout will run to your right in a counterclockwise direction.  This means when you wire your railroad you will make the inside rail (-) negative and the outside rail (+) positive.  Thus making your system wiring constant.
12. To help avoid doubling up wires in a power pack I recommend using an 8 place terminal block as this is an excellent way to help keep track of your wires.    

Important Reminder!  Always turn off all power to your model train (including the soldering iron) when you are done working on it.  I have a barn by my exit door that can be easily seen when I am leaving the room.  If the light in the barn is still on, then I know the horses are eating hay and the power is still on.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!

Other factors for choosing your trains’ baseboard are your budget and if it is going to be a fixed or portable set up.  There are 5 popular materials that are used for building baseboards for model trains.  In this article you will learn about which ones they are along with their pros and cons.

Top 5 Materials for Making Quality Baseboards

Plywood is a man made board that is made out of thin wood layer sheets.  The multiple layers are glued together and the outside sheets will have the grain running in the same direction.  This design minimizes the board from warping.  The glue used is a formaldehyde derivative, which means, you should always wear a mask when you are cutting this material.

Plywood is the preferred board material for model railroad baseboards.  It is durable, strong and can handle any changes in its environment (like moisture) that other materials can’t.  There are 2 types of plywood:

1. Birch Plywood – is extremely durable and tough.  If you want the best this is it.  When attaching your track with track pins to this material, because of its hardness, most likely you will need to pre drill their wholes.  The only downside to Birch Plywood is that it does cost more but experience railroaders know that it is well worth the extra cost.
2. Far Eastern Plywood (FE Ply) – Because this plywood is less expensive to manufacture it does cost less.  It is better than some other materials but it does not compare to Birch Plywood.  You will find this plywood being used a lot with ‘DIY Shed Kits’.  There have also been some reports of woodworm in this grade of plywood.

MEPS – this is also an engineered wood product.  It is produced from softwood that has been turned into wood fibers.  These fibers are held together with resin and wax and then formed into a board.  Again, when cutting this board wear a mask as it also contains formaldehyde.

Both of these baseboards will serve you well.  They are both strong and do not warp or split.  You will need to use power tools for cutting and drilling holes.  If you are making a portable baseboard then keep in mind that these materials can be heavy to move.

Sundeala – This product is available in the UK.  These boards are made from newspapers that have been recycled and are becoming popular with model railroaders for baseboards.  The plus sides of Sundeala boards are:

1. Easy to work with as they take track pins without drilling.
2. They are light in weight.
3. They can be cut and molded with a strong knife so no power tools are needed.

The downside of these expensive boards is their softness can break down easier.  They are prone to break, crack, sag, curl on the edges and can swell from moisture. 

If weight is your main factor then go ahead and use this board.  But make sure you use 12” centers for the underneath support frame as this will combat any sagging possibilities.

Particle Board (chipboard) this man made board is made from sawdust, sawmill shavings and wood chips.  These materials are held with resin glue and compressed together.  The way these boards are made makes them denser, cheaper, lighter and more uniform than plywood.  But Particle Boards are a weak fiber and have the tendency to absorb moister. 

You can easily combat this potential problem by simply sealing the board with oil based paint.  Its low cost does make it popular but serious railroad enthusiasts never consider using it.

MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) this particle board has a hard smooth outside finish.  Therefore it is used on things like; kitchen cabinets and highway road signs.  The boards are a bit heavier than plywood and not as strong.  So it needs to be on 12” centers for the underneath support framing and you should never go below 12 mm in thickness.

As you can see there are several choices for building baseboards.  Your choice will most likely come down to these 6 questions:

1. What tools are available for you to use.
2. What conditions your railroad will be used in.
3. The cost of the board material.
4. The availability of the board material in your area.
5. The size of the area you can set up your railroad.
6. Is your railroad going to be a fixed or portable set up.

Forever a Model Railroader, Billy Jamison!